| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| X-brace angle http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=7894 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Anyone use a 90 degree brace angle? Why or why not? Thanks! |
|
| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do. I can't really tell you why except that it fits my bracing pattern and it's easy to cut the joint. |
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, that's reason enough!!  Reason I'm asking is that I installed an LR Baggs I-Beam in a guitar the other day, and the pickup edge got in the way of the bridge pin holes if I put the pickup where they recommend! My thinking was to either shift the brace forward or open the angle to 90 so my guitars never ran into this problem. Otherwise, the installation of the I-Beam is like falling outta your chair...couldn't require less thought!
|
|
| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You might look into the K&K pure western. Similar design but three diods vs. one long one. Better design, better sound, all around better pickup. There are several dealers here (myself included) that can hook you up if you are interested. |
|
| Author: | Dickey [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I wouldn't change the x for a pickup. The small K and K's will most likely fit. Keaggys guitars, both the Olson and the Langejans had the Baggs Duet system. I don't know if that incorporates the I-Beam or not. Can you grind a bit of plastic off the ends I-Beam and it still work? Call them? |
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Bruce, I plan to do just that in fact! Wife has me out power washing and staining the patio today (since it's only 102 degrees, thought I'd better do it before it got hot!  )...I plan to try the K & K as well, probably on a guitar I'm hoping to keep for myself... 
|
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oh, and I was just toying with the idea of a 90 degree brace angle for ease of cutting!!
|
|
| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
[QUOTE=L. Presnall] ... out power washing and staining the patio today [/QUOTE] In the same day? |
|
| Author: | Dickey [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 11:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Terry, the painter in you is coming out....
|
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 12:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well Terry, the power washing happened EARLY this morning and it's been 100 degrees today...so the drying happened in a hurry...it's a fairly porous old aggregate stone...the water-based stain was almost drying TOO fast!  But all ended well...at least, we'll see how it holds up...man, I hope all your painting jobs are indoors right now...it's hot everywhere!
|
|
| Author: | David Collins [ Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The base of the iBeam can be safely trimmed quite a bit. The sensors (two small strips of piezo film - appear to be .28mm sputtered metalized if you interested in that stuff) are located in the cap near the ends. The entire base that mounts to the plate is just plastic. If you look at it you'll notice there is a center portion of the base and the the ends are separated by a small gap. Under the cap these gaps are connected with the piezo film, and the stress on the film from the vibrations is what generates the signal. That was probably more than you really wanted to know, but should give you an idea as to where you can safely trim. Obviously if the space is so narrow that you wold have to remove most of the outer legs then I would suggest looking in to a different pickup. But if it just involves nipping the corners of the flat part of the base then there is no risk (other than probably voiding the warranty). |
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
David, when you say, "near the ends"...you mean the rounded ends? If that's the case, wouldn't I need to leave that area alone? Could you elaborate as to where they are and how they run directionally? And remember, I am a product of the Alabama Public School System!
|
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Bump for David...
|
|
| Author: | David Collins [ Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have one disected back at the shop. I have to go back this evening for an appointment, so I'll try to snap a picture while I'm there. |
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
[QUOTE=David Collins] I have one disected back at the shop. I have to go back this evening for an appointment, so I'll try to snap a picture while I'm there.[/QUOTE] Cool! Thanks a bunch!
|
|
| Author: | David Collins [ Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sorry it took so long to get these posted. This is the base portion of the ibeam. The top section just has a piece of circuit board with the wire connected and is pressed on to the piezo film to secure the connections. Unfortunately that part is lost somewhere in the bowels of my shop right now. 
This is a close up of one side. On guitars with a tight X-brace angle I have never had to clip more the the corners of the base. I've never had to clip the vertical center section, and that is where you might start to effect the response. From what you described, a quick nip on the corners of the flat part of the base and a little of the vertical leg (the part perpendicular to the length) at the end will probably give you plenty of room to move it forward enough. 
|
|
| Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks David! Now, just so I'm sure that I'm looking at this corredtly...it's facing "up" in your photo...the way it'd be attached to the underside of the bridge plate...you're saying DO NOT cut anything along the longitude of the pickup, only angle the corners on the side of the pickup facing the soundhole, to snug up into the X-brace? |
|
| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
In theory the X angle does a lot to determine the final ratio of long- to cross-grain stiffness of the completed top. In theory there should be one 'correct' angle for any given top, depending on the wood properties. Again, in theory this should have a lot to do with the final sound. In practice there's a lot of difference between theory and practice. Unless you're into measuring the stiffness of every top, and re-working your bracing to suit, assumiing you know how to do that, you should probably find something you like and learn to work with it. 90 degrees is probably as good an angle as any, assuming you are ready to be flexible with some other things. |
|
| Author: | tippie53 [ Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use the old CF Martin layout. this isn't 90 degress. I was taught bracing 101 by Dave Nichols and Martin so that is my influence. john hall |
|
| Author: | Dave Rector [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
[QUOTE=tippie53] I use the old CF Martin layout. this isn't 90 degress. [/QUOTE] John, mind if I ask what the angle is? |
|
| Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is about a 95 degree. |
|
| Author: | Dave Rector [ Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks John! |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|